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Consistent Quality & Unmatched Flexibility
Every component is correct in size and shape – every time, in every fabric, with every operator. Consistent quality is maintained across multiple manufacturing site.
Component size or shape can be changed in few seconds by the operator without any assistance. No “learning course” is required, operators achieve full productivity within minutes of introducing a new style.
Unskilled Operation & Enhanced Productivity
Very limited sewing skills are required, simply the ability to maintain a steady routine in loading and unloading the stitching templates. New (unskilled) operators produce perfect components from the outset and achieve full productivity within only a few hours.
Very high machine utilization is achieved because one template can be loaded while a second template is being sewn; so called “needle time” comfortably exceeds 80%. Unskilled operator can be brought in at times of peak demand. New styles no longer cause dip in production.
Benefits
- changes of tie shapes and styles are made simply by changing the stitching jig
- all types of necktie construction can be produced—closed or open end with single mitre or three mitre tips, large end and small end tipped separately
- all types of necktie fabrics can be sewn
- a number of engineering diagnostics are included to give the status of inputs and outputs; by observing these indicators, the engineer can quickly correct any faults that may occur
- no fabric wastage; unskilled operators produce perfect neckties from “day one”
- all the features of hand sewn necktie tips, but with consistent quality, much greater productivity and minimal operator training
Microprocessor Control System
The AJ-59T is controlled by an AMF Reece-designed microprocessor, and the entire control system is housed in one module fixed to the tabletop. An LED display prompts the operator for the next operation. If, for example, the jig is not located, the machine will not start, and the operator will be asked to reload the jig.
Template Drive System
The template drive mechanism enables the template speed and direction to be varied independent of sewing speed, for more precise control-especially at mitre corners.
The template drive system also serves to turn the template at the necktie corners. Eliminating the dwell time for the operation of the former template turn device provides a further increase in productivity.
Automatic Start
The automatic start is simpler means of introducing the template into the start position, plus automatic start by proximity sensor, further enhanced productivity.
Sewing Head
The 84-59T tie machine uses Pfaff sewing head with automatic underbed trimmer.
Cost Savings
The manual method of necktie tipping is a highly skilled operation and requires a long period of training, which can be up to six months. By using the AJ-59T, the training period is less than two weeks.
Due to the nature of the silk material used for high quality neckties, fabric handling can vary from each cut batch of material. All necktie materials are cut on the bias, which means that during the manual sewing operation, the operator has to sew along the warp on one seam, and along the weft on the other. Since the warp and weft are woven at different tensions, this causes a handling problem when trying to put the fullness into the tip. This problem is eliminated by use of the AJ-59T, because when the silk is clamped in the stitching jig, any possibility of the material slipping or differential feeding is eliminated.
Sewing a precision mitred corner on a tie
The stitching template drive mechanism is independent of the needle drive, so the speed and direction of the template can be changed independently of the sewing speed. Stitching lengths are selected and adjusted with ease and precision at the operator console. By progressively reducing the stitch length at the approach to a corner, a more accurate mitre is created, enhancing the necktie appearance.
- Approaching each corner of necktie tip, template slows progressively, and stitching ceases at apex of corner.
- With needle raised, drive wheel continues to turn template until needle has progressed beyond pleat of necktie fabric.
- Template moves backwards, until raised needle is once more at apex of corner, but now on ‘exit’ side of pleat.
- Needle descends, sewing re-commences, and template accelerates away from corner.
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